DIY Boat Hardtop Build Part 2: Fiberglassing, Wiring, Water Control & Stainless Support Install**
In this second installment of my DIY boat hardtop build series, I dive deep into the process of finishing the top surface, sealing the edges, running wiring, reinforcing the structure, and finally getting the top lifted onto the boat. If you haven’t seen the video yet, you can watch the full build here:
👉 Watch the full Part 2 video on YouTube
This project transforms the boat completely and prepares the top for solar panels, lighting, water management, and long-term offshore durability. Here’s a full breakdown of everything covered in the video.
Flipping the Top & Starting Side Two
The build picks up right where Part 1 ended. After finishing the underside and carpeting, it was time to flip the entire hardtop over to work on the top surface. Even though the whole structure is surprisingly lightweight, the size makes it awkward to handle — so four people carefully flipped it, slid it out, stood it up, and laid it back down.
Once flipped, a small amount of resin had seeped through, but that was easily handled. The next step was fiberglassing all the seams on side two, then coating the entire top for strength and watertight durability.
Using Epoxy and Polyester Resins
I had leftover epoxy from a previous project, so I used it for the seams (epoxy is great for bonding but doesn’t break down the fiberglass mat as well).
For the main layer, I switched to polyester resin, which wets out fiberglass much better over large surfaces.
The top surface won’t be visible once the solar panels are installed, so it didn’t need heavy cosmetic finishing — strength was the priority.
Building the PVC Edge Trim
To create a clean underside and protect the carpeted edge, I used plastic trim from Lowe’s. I formed it into an “L” shape and cut it down to size. The trim hides the carpet edge, creates a finished look, and helps prevent water intrusion.
Because PVC is flexible when heated, I used a heat gun to bend it around corners. Screws temporarily held each section in place until fiberglass and resin permanently bonded everything.
Testing a New Idea: The Water Ridge (AKA the “Gully Whopper”)
This part is new — even for me.
Since this boat has a small freshwater tank, I created a small ridge (using leftover plastic trim) designed to:
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Catch normal rainfall
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Funnel water toward collection points
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Still allow water to overflow safely during a “gully whopper” — my technical term for a torrential Florida rainstorm
The ridge acts like a miniature gutter, directing water exactly where I want it without blocking heavy runoff. I tested the idea in small sections before installing it across the top.
Running Wiring for Lights and Accessories
Next up was embedding wiring into the top. I installed channels for LED lighting and future accessories like Starlink.
Everything was routed under the solar panels or through chase ways so no wires are visible once installed. Reinforcing boards were added exactly where the solar panel brackets would mount — this prevents blow-offs during high winds. (I lost a panel on Good Times OG because of this once. Lesson learned.)
Fiberglassing the Entire Top
After the water directors, wiring, and reinforcement boards were set, it was time for a full fiberglass skin. I used chopped strand mat from a past project, saturated it heavily with resin, and let the whole surface cure.
Once cured, I applied two coats of paint to protect the fiberglass from UV and give it a clean finish.
Getting the Hardtop Onto the Boat
This was the big day.
Using two-by-fours, straps, and the custom lift system I built for the boat, my family helped lift the top high enough to back the boat under it. With some careful maneuvering (and sweat), we eased the top into position.
It took a few tries to get it perfectly centered. A homemade plumb bob (just a big washer) helped align everything left-to-right.
Installing the 1-Inch Stainless Uprights
To support the top, I installed 1″ stainless tubing:
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Two uprights in the rear
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Additional diagonal braces to prevent forward-backward and side-to-side movement
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Through-bolting where needed for major load points
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Screws used only where double fiberglass layers provided enough hold
Exact matching of cut lengths ensured equal height and proper slope for water runoff.
Once all tubing was installed, the top became extremely solid — strong enough to stand on.
Adding Lighting and Finishing Touches
Wiring for floodlights, interior lights, and future Starlink was routed through hidden chase ways.
Heat-shrink connections ensured everything stayed watertight.
The front floodlight can rotate inward for task lighting or outward for docking at night.
Looking Ahead: Solar Panels & Rain Capture
The next video will cover:
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Installing solar panels
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Wiring them into the power system
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Adding a new battery
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Designing the rainwater capture funnel system
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Building the generator mount and enclosure
This project has completely changed the look and function of the boat — and the solar setup will take it even further.
